Guide: Weligama, Sri Lanka

Weligama Bay sits at the southern end of Sri Lanka, providing a large bay juxtaposed with a main road barreling straight down the coast. A surfer's haven, this place boasts some of the easiest waves to start learning some surf skills on. We recommend taking a bus ride in for full Sri Lankan effect - you’ll find yourself digging fingernails into bright glittery blue vinyl seats sealed in clear plastic and melded together with shiny metal frames that are modeled after an ornate bed frame. The Sri Lankan coast will stream together in a vision of rapid flurry, melding colors of emerald, deep blues, greens, yellows, and browns.

If the visual sensory detail isn’t enough, you’re ears will be filled with bumping, pulsing music I can only classify as Sri Lankan. The beats will reminisce it’s larger counterpart, India, but make no mistake in differentiating the two. Each bus comes with at minimum, four subwoofer speakers - just in case your friends at the back of the bus can’t hear it. Everything moves quite slowly in Sri Lanka, but the buses - well, the buses have their own rhythm. They own the streets as well as your life the moment you see one. That is, if you don’t hear it first. I’m convinced each bus driver has engineered his horn to be louder than his competitors. Smile, laugh, let the wind take your hair. After all, you’re in Sri Lanka.

Once you get to Weligama, your day should look something like this:

 

Rise with the sun

 

One of the best parts about Sri Lanka is the way time moves. It can be achingly slow at times, but when it comes time to leave you’ll be wondering where the time went. The best way to seize the day here is to rise with the sun. The entire being of Weligama does. It’s within these moments that you can feel your senses awaken just as they would’ve a thousand years ago. You’ll hear birds cooing to their neighbors, water droplets sliding down the leaves of Frangipani trees, and you’ll notice your breath as if it was the first sip of air you’ve taken in your life.

My favorite mornings have involved early morning yoga, followed by a morning surf. For yoga, the earliest class you’ll find is at Ceylon Sliders right at 6:30 AM. You don’t have to be bright-eyed and bushy tailed, you just have to make it there and up the stairs to their rooftop deck.

Grab Breakfast at Ceylon Sliders

 

Since you’re already there, sit down in the cafe for some breakfast to fuel your morning. You can expect to find a real cup of coffee here, no mixed grinds in water. I recommend eating the granola bowl - I tried it once and found myself licking the bowl. It’s filled with curd, chia, pomegranates, mangos, papaya, watermelon, and homemade granola. But the kicker is pouring sweet coconut honey all over the top, letting it seep down and form a pool at the bottom of your bowl.

If savory is more your style, I’d recommend the corn fritters. They’re the closest thing you’ll find to mexican flair in Weligama and will be enough to fill you up after a hearty surf.

Surf in Weligama Bay

 

Before or after breakfast, it doesn’t matter the time as long as you make it a priority to surf here. Beginners, all hail Weligama bay. In all honesty, this is where I’ve heard the term “smeligama”. This will depend on the time of year you visit. In the rainy season - August/September through November/December, expect to find the water a little less than clear. However, once the rain clears up so does the water. It’s now January and I’ve found myself staring straight down, through reef and sand to find nothing but emerald, beautiful water.

You can rent a board pretty easy around here. If you go out front of the Marriott hotel, there’s a stretch of surf camps with boards galore. Expect to pay about 1,000 rupees for the day, or about 250-300 rupees for an hour. If you haven’t surfed before, it’s a good idea to get lessons as the learning curve is quite steep.

Lunch at Hangtime Hostel

 

Now that you’ve worked up a mean appetite surfing comes lunch. I’ve frequented Hangtime Hostel more than I’d like to admit, but the owners are amazing and the food may be the best lunch in Weligama. If you’re feeling naughty, go for the fried chicken burger. Spicy coleslaw sits atop a fried chicken cutlet served on a fresh bun, with fries. If you feel like you need a vegetable or two, order the chickpea salad. It’s complete with a spicy honey sauce and feta cheese for some salty oomphs. They also have the best coffee in the area, so if you need a pick-me-up get it here.

Sunset at Tiki Bar

 

Sri Lanka has some pretty spectacular sunsets with soft hues of pink and orange. Make your way to a cliff top bar known as Tiki Bar at the edge of Weligama. Grab a beer (Lion, of course) or a cocktail and a friend or two for the perfect place to watch the sunset. You’ll have views of Weligama bay and the Indian ocean for miles and miles.

Dinner at Chef Akila

 

Make a reservation. No, seriously, make a reservation. This little restaurant sits next to Tiki Bar and it’s entirely worth the wait. From the outside you won’t think much of it’s modest exterior. However, the food is some of the best in Sri Lanka. If it’s the high season you’ll need to book well in advance for a seat at Chef Akila. The owner makes everything fresh to order, so you’ll find some things on the menu change on availability. My favorite is the fish coconut curry, it’s bowl-licking good. For dessert, try the deep fried ice cream to end your day.

Weligama is on the cusp of transforming into a major travel destination in Sri Lanka. It sneaks up on you, and before you know it you'll find yourself here mesmerized by the water, waves, and weather.  It's at the epicenter of Southern Sri Lanka, providing the perfect starting point to venture to and from other beautiful places. Weligama has become a sense of home to me, as it has for many travels either nomadic or more permanent in nature.